Doing research before you buy?
Cross-reference this checklist with the coverage considerations inside our Understanding Your Policy pillar guide and the savings moves in the Lower Your Premiums pillar guide.
The car you choose can swing your premium by hundreds per year. Insurers look at crash safety, repair costs, theft risk, horsepower, and even how hard it is to source parts. Pick a model that makes their math easy, and you win. Pick a model that is costly to fix or easy to steal, and you pay. This guide shows you how to choose a vehicle that keeps insurance affordable without guessing.
How insurers price your car (plain English)
- Safety scores: IIHS Top Safety Pick and NHTSA 5-star ratings reduce injury costs. Safer cars = cheaper liability and medical claims.
- Repair complexity: Aluminum bodies, fancy sensors, and rare parts mean longer shop time and higher bills.
- Theft risk: Popular targets (full-size trucks, some Hondas/Kias) drive up comprehensive premiums.
- Horsepower and speed: High HP cars correlate with faster driving and bigger crashes, so they get surcharged.
- Parts availability: Common models with easy parts cost less to fix; rare imports cost more.
- Driver assistance: Good ADAS can prevent crashes, but recalibrating sensors after a bumper tap can be pricey.
Table: Vehicle type vs likely insurance impact
Use this to spot “cheap to insure” versus “pricey to insure” at a glance.
| Vehicle type | Insurance impact | Why | Watch for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Midsize sedan | Lower | Good safety scores, common parts | Check ADAS calibration costs |
| Small SUV | Lower–medium | Popular, easy parts, decent crash results | Avoid high theft trims; confirm anti-theft |
| Full-size truck | Medium–high | High theft rates; expensive body/bed repairs | Add anti-theft; check tailgate/cat theft data |
| Luxury/SUV | High | Expensive sensors, glass, and labor | Check OEM glass/parts cost; higher deductibles may help |
| Sports car | High | High HP, higher crash severity | Young drivers pay more; track use excluded |
| Hybrids/EVs | Medium–high | Battery and electronics costs | Ask about battery replacement cost and availability |
ADAS and sensor repairs: ask before you buy
Advanced driver-assist systems (ADAS) save lives but can raise repair bills. A minor bumper tap can require calibration of radar, cameras, and lidar. Know the numbers before you sign.
| Part/system | Common cost | Questions to ask |
|---|---|---|
| Front radar in bumper | $300–$1,200 calibration | Is calibration needed after a bumper repair? Which shops nearby can do it? |
| Windshield camera | $250–$600 calibration (plus glass) | Does OEM glass matter for ADAS? What’s the price difference vs aftermarket? |
| Blind-spot radar | $400–$1,000 per sensor | Are sensors exposed on the bumper corners? How are replacements sourced? |
Theft risk: reduce it before you roll off the lot
Comprehensive premiums rise when a model is a theft target. Protect yourself with tech and smart habits.
| Risk factor | What to do | Insurance impact |
|---|---|---|
| High-theft model | Add factory immobilizer, tracking, or aftermarket alarm | May qualify for anti-theft credit; lowers comprehensive risk |
| Catalytic converter theft | Install a shield; etch VIN; park in well-lit areas | Can reduce claims that drive comp rates up |
| Keyless entry hacks | Use a Faraday pouch; update firmware | Lowers theft likelihood and downtime |
15-minute pre-purchase checklist
- Grab the exact VIN and run a quote with your insurer before signing anything.
- Check IIHS and NHTSA ratings—aim for Top Safety Pick/5-star.
- Ask the dealer for ADAS calibration costs and windshield pricing.
- Confirm anti-theft tech (immobilizer, tracking). Get it in writing.
- Estimate rental needs if the car is in the shop; align with loss of use coverage.
If you finance or lease: lender rules matter
Lenders usually require comprehensive and collision, sometimes OEM parts coverage. If you drop them, you risk force-placed insurance (expensive and limited).
- Ask for required deductibles and coverages before you buy.
- Add gap insurance if your loan balance could exceed the car’s value.
- Choose models with affordable parts so you can keep deductibles reasonable.
Cost guardrails by vehicle category
Use these quick guardrails to avoid surprises. Actual premiums vary by driver, but the relative patterns hold.
| Category | Premium tendency | Why | Shopping tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| Economy/midsize | Lower | Cheap parts, solid safety | Verify ADAS costs, avoid high-theft trims |
| Performance/sports | High | Speed and severity risk | Expect surcharges; higher deductibles may offset |
| Luxury | High | Pricy glass/electronics, higher theft interest | Get OEM parts quote; budget for higher deductibles |
| EV/Hybrid | Medium–high | Battery cost, fewer repair shops | Ask about battery warranty and replacement cost |
Script the conversation (dealer + insurer)
Dealer: “Before I sign, what are the ADAS calibration costs, windshield cost, and part availability for this trim? Please write them on the buyer’s order.”
Insurer: “Here’s the VIN. Quote it with my current coverages. What are the comp/collision, rental/loss of use, and glass options? Any anti-theft credits for this model?”
Lender: “What coverages and deductibles do you require? Do you accept aftermarket glass or do you require OEM?”
If you already bought the car and the quote is high
- Raise deductibles if you have the savings (see deductible guide).
- Add anti-theft gear and send proof for a discount.
- Take a defensive-driving course and try safe-driving programs.
- Shop another carrier with the same limits; some rate models differently.
Used vs new: what changes for insurance
Used cars can be cheaper to insure, but not always. Here’s how to check:
- Safety tech gap: Older trims may lack modern ADAS that prevent crashes. That can raise rates if loss data shows more claims.
- Parts availability: Some older models have scarce parts, which raises repair time and cost.
- Prior damage: Salvage or rebuilt titles can be uninsurable or limited. Run a VIN history before you fall in love with a deal.
- Anti-theft: Older models without immobilizers may need aftermarket devices to qualify for credits.
Trim choices that change price
Two trims of the same model can price very differently. Pay attention to:
- Engine size/horsepower: Higher HP often means higher premium.
- Wheel/tire size: Low-profile wheels and expensive tires cost more to replace.
- Glass and pano roofs: Panoramic roofs and HUD windshields are pricier to fix; ask for replacement cost.
- Packages with sensors: Parking, lane-keep, and 360 cams add safety and cost. Make sure the safety benefit is worth the repair bill.
Shop times and rentals: plan for downtime
Some cars sit in the shop longer because parts are slow or calibration slots are booked. Longer downtime can blow through rental caps.
- Ask your local body shop: “For this model, how long do parts take? How many days do repairs usually run?”
- Set rental/loss-of-use limits to match those timelines (see loss of use coverage).
- Keep receipts organized—faster reimbursements mean less out-of-pocket strain.
Young drivers: pick “boring” on purpose
Teen and young-adult drivers face the highest surcharges. The vehicle choice can either fight or multiply those costs.
- Choose a safe, mid-power sedan or small SUV with great safety scores.
- Avoid high-theft models and high horsepower; the rating model punishes both.
- Add telematics and a defensive-driving course to claw back discounts.
Total cost of ownership: include insurance in the price
When you compare car deals, include insurance. A $40/mo premium difference is $480 per year—real money. Stack it into your budget:
- Quote the exact VIN with your intended coverages (liability, comp/collision, rental, roadside).
- Add that monthly premium to your payment, fuel, and maintenance to see the real cost.
- If the total strains your budget, step down a trim or choose a safer, cheaper-to-repair model.
One-week action plan
- Day 1: Pick three target vehicles and gather VINs.
- Day 2: Check IIHS/NHTSA scores; drop any low performers.
- Day 3: Call a local body shop to ask about parts and calibration costs for each VIN.
- Day 4: Quote each VIN with your insurer and confirm rental/anti-theft credits.
- Day 5: If financing, confirm lender coverage requirements.
- Day 6: Compare total monthly cost (payment + insurance + fuel + maintenance).
- Day 7: Choose the car that fits safety, budget, and insurance guardrails.
Common mistakes that raise premiums
- Buying before quoting the VIN—then being shocked by the premium.
- Assuming safety tech always lowers price; repair/calibration costs can push it up.
- Picking a high-theft trim without adding anti-theft gear.
- Choosing low rental/loss-of-use limits for a car with long repair times.
- Skipping gap coverage on a financed car that depreciates faster than the loan.
If you want to switch carriers with your new car
Different insurers rate models differently. When your new car pushes your premium up, shop smart:
- Match limits and deductibles exactly across quotes so comparisons are fair.
- Send proof of anti-theft, defensive-driving certificates, and low-mileage estimates.
- Ask for telematics trial discounts if you drive safely and want to prove it.
- Check glass and rental options—some carriers include better sub-limits by default.
EV and hybrid shoppers: special notes
EVs and hybrids have unique costs. Do this before you buy:
- Ask the dealer for battery replacement cost and warranty terms.
- Confirm nearby shops are certified to repair your make/model.
- Check tire prices—EVs often need special tires that wear faster.
- Quote the VIN with comprehensive/collision and glass options; battery and glass costs can drive the premium.
Renewal check: don’t set and forget
After a year of ownership, revisit your policy. Prices and life circumstances change.
- Requote the VIN at renewal; some models get cheaper as more loss data arrives.
- Update mileage—if you drive less than planned, ask for a low-mileage credit.
- Review deductibles against your current savings. Adjust if your cushion grew.
- Ensure UM/UIM matches your liability so you’re covered against underinsured drivers.
Two-minute VIN quote steps
- Enter the VIN in your insurer portal with the same coverages you want to keep.
- Toggle deductibles ($500 vs $1,000) to see the impact—only pick what you can pay today.
- Add rental/loss of use and glass options; note the price change.
- Screenshot the quote and save it with your buyer’s order so you remember the real cost.
FAQ
Will an IIHS Top Safety Pick always be cheaper? Often, but not always. If repairs are pricey (e.g., complex sensors), costs can still be high.
Are hybrids/EVs always more expensive? Not always. Some have strong safety and low theft risk, but battery repair costs can push premiums up.
Does horsepower always raise rates? High horsepower is a risk flag. Even if you drive calmly, the rating model assumes higher severity.
Should I buy OEM glass coverage? If your car needs calibration after windshield replacement, OEM glass can avoid sensor issues. Price both.
Do anti-theft devices really lower price? Yes—many carriers give credits for factory immobilizers, tracking, and approved alarms. Send proof.
Bottom line
The cheapest way to save on insurance is to pick a car that is safe, boring to thieves, and cheap to repair. Quote the VIN before you sign, ask about sensor costs, and match your coverages to lender rules and your budget.
Want a quick win? Open the VIN in your insurer’s portal, check the tables above, and align your coverages with the Understanding Your Policy pillar guide. Ten minutes now can save you hundreds every year.